Mario Albrecht

 

Figure 1 - Albrecht. M. 2020. Networked Brooch. Polyethylene (plastic bags & packaging films), silver, dental steel

Figure 2 - Albrecht. M. 2019. Overdriven Brooch. Polyethylene (plastic bags & packaging films), silver, dental steel

Albrecht is an art-jeweller from Germany. He uses plastic bags and foils to manufacture his jewellery. “Multi-layered” to creates strong, free forms and patterns that produce high-quality brooches, rings, and necklaces as seen in figures 1 and 2. I was inspired by the strictly geometric pattern that is used in his art-jeweller. By using his process of mixing different plastic materials, I was able to create a piece of jewellery like the Geometric Rat by fly pressing plastic. This is a way of revealing the beauty of plastic waste from the special value, it holds.

James de Givenchy

 

Figure 1- Givenchy J. 2019 Camouflage Bangle. Ceramics, Gold and Gemstones

Figure 2- Givenchy J. (n.d). Cocktail-Rings. Ceramics, Gold and Gemstones

I was inspired by Givenchy's Taffin design collections seen in figure 1 and 2, which was designed to be a bold combination of colour in gemstones. He often employs coloured ceramics, which has become one of his signatures. This has inspired me to choose him as my art-jewellery reference for recycling plastic. My own contemporary jewellery pieces, like the Abstract Art Pendant, are inspired by ceramic colour contrast technique of Givenchy's jewellery, which I am not incorporating on my jewellery pieces but I rather use plastic waste to create a new signature for recycling.

Table of Contents

Introduction

Research Methodology

My Theme:

• Metcalf
• VGCJ
• Mixed Materials
• Recycle
• Topic Explanation

References:

• Mario Albrecht
• James de Givenchy
• Maria Sorokina

Prototype:

• Platinum
• PlatAfrica - 1 Prototype Model Development
• PlatAfrica - 2 Prototype Model Development
• PlatAfrica - 3 Prototype Model Development
• PlatAfrica - “i refuse” Bangle
• "i refuse" means what?
• Casting
• Plastic Oval Flora
• Oval Flora Mould
• Plastic Butterfly
• Signet Ring
• Rhino CAD Renders 
• PlatAfrica 2020 Competition - Bangle for Men
• Oval Flora Mould Prototype
• Geometric Pendant
• Cushion Pendant
• Cushion Ring
• 3D print
• Geometric Butterfly 3D Printer
• Oval Flora 3D Printer
• Mould
• Oval Flora Mould
• Plastic Butterfly
• Fly Pressing
• Frame Pressing
• Plastic Oval Flora

Conclusion

Reference

Plastic Oval Flora

HDPE and ABS Fly Pressing

Figure 1 - Mbeje A. (2020). Oval Flora. Gilding Metal (Mould), ABS Plastic (left-side) and HDPE (right-side).

This is my third experimentation on fly pressing, but what I have noticed so far ABS Plastic has good characteristics on fly pressing, a smooth shiny surface as seen in figure 1 on the right side, and it's lighter than HDPE plastic. ABS plastic cools off very fast from the fly pressed mould and HDPE plastic takes time to cool off and also leaves dark lays inside the mould.

Figure 2 - Mbeje A. (2020). Oval Flora, ABS Plastic (right-side) and HDPE (left-side).

I tried another different technique of mixing ABS and HDPE plastic together to see if these two pieces of plastic will bond together when melted and fly pressed. it didn't happen due to the temperature heat of two plastics, HDPE melt easily and ABS plastic takes time for it to melt,  Therefore it's not possible to mix the two resin plastics together for fly pressing, due to the melting temperature resin of these two plastics as seen in figure 2.

I have learned a lot from this experimentation about plastics. I was able to learn different techniques of approaching this experiment, even if it was difficult for me at first but I was having an understanding of what plastic does when you fly press and also when you are compressing plastic to form a shape, what happens? Those were the things that I wanted to know from this experiment.

 

Oval Flora 3D Printer

Fly Pressing Mould

Figure 1- Mbeje A. (2020). Oval Flora (Mould). ABS Plastic.

The Oval Flora mould was not printed accurately due to the Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM), which is not designed to print detailed objects. I have seen a lot of issues from these prototypes as seen in figure 1 that ABS plastic it's not a good material for printing highly detailed objects, it's created texture when printing.

I believe that resin is the best solution for printing a highly detailed object like the Oval Flora mould.  
 

Oval Flora Mould Prototype

 Oval Flora Prototype

Figure 1 - Mbeje. A (2020) Oval Flora. 3D CAD rendering mould (Gilding Metal)

I did this design to improve the quality of my work from the previous Oval Flora design. I want to make this prototype as an experimental exercise for me to understand how does fly pressing works, that why I made this prototype smaller and also adding detail inside the mould, even if it is difficult to achieve as I have tried from the previous exercises. This will help me to make the plastic to have a lesser weight from fly pressing.

Oval Flora Mould

 

Fly Pressing Plastic

Figure 1 - Mbeje. A (2020) Oval Flora Pattern. Gilding Mould 

This was my first experimentation of using the fly pressing technique in jewellery, I was using a painted mould to fly press the plastic in figure 1. My explanation of using the mould on plastic was not easy because of the simple pattern design. I wanted to learn how to fly press and what are the challenges of using plastic not metal, but my design mould would have been better if I made it's smaller and detailed from the inside mould.

Figure 2 -  Mbeje. A (2020). Oval Flora Pattern. Plastic HDPE (coca-cola cups) 

Using gilding metal for fly pressing plastic, it's not a problem if you do its right, the temperature remains constant until the plastic cools off.

Plastic Butterfly

HDPE and ABS Fly Pressing

Figure 1 - Mbeje A. (2020). Geometric Butterfly Pendant (Mould), Gilding Metal

The casted mould didn't come out accurately as seen in Figure 1, this was caused by the printing structure of the ABS Plastic. The Geometric Butterfly mould was casted with gilding metal, which created problems for me when I was fly pressing the plastic. The mould lost shape from inside to due shrinkage and porosity.    

 .  

Figure 2 - Mbeje A. (2020). Geometric Butterfly. ABS Plastic (left-side) and HDPE (right-side). 

My aim was to achieve the Geometric Butterfly design prototype by using different type of plastics material to fly press in order to achieve a smooth shiny surface from the mould.  I was able to achieve this finish by using the ABS plastic as seen in Figure 2 on the left side. I was struggling to achieve this from the HDPE plastic as seen on the right side in Figure 2. The plastic surface had a matte finish after being fly pressed, but this was caused by the porosity inside the mould which wasn't affecting the ABS plastic.

Geometric Butterfly 3D Printer

Fly Press Mould 

Figure 1- Mbeje A. (2020). Geometric Butterfly (Mould). ABS Plastic.

The 3D mould was not printed accurately, due to the detail of the mould and size. I printed this mould with a Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM), which is built to printer layer-by-layer. What I noticed about this 3D printer, it's not designed to print a small object that has too many details, especially on this porotype in figure 1. 

If I have to print this mould again with the same printer, I have to make the mould bigger from its size in order to achieve the detail of the porotype.

Geometric Pendant

 Geometric Butterfly Pendant - CAD Rendering 

Figure 1- Mbeje A. (2020). Geometric Butterfly Pendant (Rendering). HDPE Plastic, Brass and Silver

My prototype design was inspired by geometric shapes. I will be using this mould in figure 2 to fly pressing HDPE Plastic. I am printing this mould with a 3D painter.  I want to create a Geometric Butterfly Pendent as seen in figure 1, which will be a mixed material jewellery piece.

Figure 2 - Mbeje A. (2020). Geometric Mould (Rendering).  HDPE Plastic, Brass and Silver

The mould has two basic structures as seen in figure 2. Plastic will be melted on the female base, then the male base will be used for compressing the thickness of plastic inside mould. 

Frame Pressing

 

Temperature Heat Pressing 

Figure 1- Mbeje A. 2020. Geometric Butterfly. Copper and HDPE (coca-cola)

In this experimentation, I was using the temperature heat of the kiln to compress down the melted plastic with the Geometric Butterfly as a force.

Figure 2 - Mbeje A. 2020. Geometric Butterfly. Copper and HDPE (coca-cola)

When I was using the frame copper, it changes colours from being polished to tarnish, especially as a result of exposure to moisture from temperature heat of the kiln. Some parts of the Geometric Butterfly weren't balanced on top of the plastic when I was experimenting this exercise, as seen in figure 2 the left-hand side has more bubbles and right-side has less plastic due to unbalance melted surface.

Figure 3 - Mbeje A. 2020. Geometric Rat. Copper and HDPE (coca-cola)

My second attempt was achieved by my hands. I had to compress down the surface to create balance on the melted plastic with a flat steel plate then placed the Geometric Rate frame on top of plastic as seen in figure 3.

Abstract Art Pendant

 

 Figure 1 - Mbeje A. 2020 Abstract Art Pendant. HDPE, Silver, Copper and Brass

My jewellery pendant was inspired by the painting of William LaChance called "Beach Buzz". I like creating jewellery that has smooth geometric shapes and different contrast of colours like the Abstract Art Pendant seen in figure 1. This pendant was made with sterling silver, brass, copper, and melted plastic coca-cola cap.

Artistic statement of Plastic Waste Jewellery

 

Figure 1 - Mbeje A. 2020 Abstract Art Pendant. HDPE, Silver, Copper and Brass

 As a jewellery artist, I like to make jewellery that has geometric shapes and contrast like James de Givenchy’s ceramics jewellery, but not using ceramics to incorporate my work. I'm recycling cola-cola plastic caps to capture the beauty of melting plastic waste into wearable jewellery as seen in figure 1.

My jewellery functions

 Social Status

My jewellery pieces can be defined as a social status to a person who likes wearing recycled jewellery, or imagining about having an item that is recycled on their body. My jewellery pieces are a personal ornament of saving the environment by creating jewellery that will send a strong message to society like the “Multi-layered” jewellery brooch of  Mario Albrecht in Figure 1, which is made with plastic bags and foils. The jewellery pieces that I design or make are a symbol of social status. 

Figure 1 -  Albrecht. M. 2016. Brooch "tagged", Polyethylene (plastic bags & packaging film), silver, dental steel.

Metcalf (On the Nature of Jewelry,1998) says, "Probably the most important subtext of jewelry is to mark social identity and status. Adornment has always been used to either distinguish or merge the wearer with social groupings"  Metcalf's statement expresses a lot of information, but looking from what is happening in society now, most of the people in our days are wearing recycled jewellery as a new fashion trend of awareness in "Eco-warriors".

Cola-Cola Plastic

 Melting Coca-Cola Caps

Cola-Cola caps are still amongst the best plastic to be used on my projects, the cherry red contrast has more accessible elements on a jewellery piece like the PlatAfrica bangle. I have provided some pictures to show how the cherry red plastic is achieved when melting Cola-Cola caps inside the oven kiln seen in figure 1.

Figure 1 - Mbeje A. 2020. raw plastic oxidized plastic. Cola-Cola  melted caps, 

Figure 2 - Mbeje A. 2020 raw plastic. Cola-Cola Caps prints, 

If you melting plastic caps at the correct temperature at the oven kiln, you will see the printing of Cola-Cola in the plastic mold as seen in figure 2. Cola-Cola Caps are made of HDPE (High-Density Polyethylene). I have been testing plastic caps for months and I have found that coke bottle caps are melting at a great temperature of 200 to 231c. however, if the plastic is melted inside the mold as seen in figure 1, it does not get enough air to start to oxidize.

"i refuse" means what?

Figure 1 - Mbeje A. 2020. "i refuse". Platinum Piercing 

I had a lot of word phrases that could have been used for this jewellery piece like "i believe"and "i resist", but I choose to use "i refuse". 

The reason why I decided to use "i refuse" on my PlatAfica bangle, I was busy doing research on Zakes Bantwini's career, I came across this quote from Israelmore Ayivor “Refuse to become a victim of your circumstances and give a lift to your potentials each and every day against the wish of any obstacle you encounter!”, after reading this quote I was able to understand his tribulations that he had to face in order to achieve in his career and goals as a musician, from having a child at the age of 14 years.

Despite facing the challenges of being a teenage father and also have to matriculate in high school. He had to refuse, resist, and believe. 

PlatAfrica - “i refuse” Bangle

 

“i refuse” Bangle

Figure 1 - Mbeje A. 2020 “i refuse” Bangle. Silver frame, HDPE Plastic (Red and Black), Platinum Pattern  

My 2020 PlatAfica jewellery piece was made from all of the prototype models that I developed. My design hook helped me to learn different techniques of assembling this bangle as seen in figure 1 as a multifaceted jewellery piece. The bangle was made with 80% recycled Plastic Red and Black (HDPE Cola-Cola caps) and 10% of Silver and 10% platinum.

Figure 2 - Mbeje A. 2020 “i refuse” Bangle. Silver frame, HDPE Plastic (Red and Black), Platinum Clasper Piercing  

My bangle design was inspired by DNA structure patterns, which are used as a fundamental of portraying Zakes Bantwini’ career. The word phase of “i refuse” as seen in figure 2. I look up to him as a musician DNA of South Africa due to the successful career that he has achieved in music.  The word phase of “i refuse” on the bangle clasper should be worn by every man in the society, who want to have positive energy in their career. 

PlatAfrica - 3 Prototype Model Development

Corner edge Bangle

Figure 1 - Mbeje A. 2020. Corner edge Bangle. Plastic HPDE and Silver frame

 Figure 2 - Mbeje A. 2020. Corner edge Bangle. Plastic HPDE and Silver frame and pattern 

  

The inspiration for the prototype in figure 1 was derived from the Cushion shape and Knife-edge bangle. The silver frames also part of the inspiration that is used in the platinum pattern as seen in figure 2. The frame corners and patterns are there to create balance, and proportion on the bangle. The Black (HDPE) plastic was used to create contrast on the platinum pattern and also reduce the amount of contrast from the Red (HDPE) plastic.

 

PlatAfrica - 2 Prototype Model Development

Knife-edge Bangle

These are the separated pieces of the Knife-edge Bangle that will be assembled for the bangle. The separated pieces of the bangle will be riveted together as seen in figure 2.

Figure 1 - Mbeje A. 2020. Knife-edge Bangle. Plastic HPDE and Silver frame

The design of this prototype was inspired by the geometric tapered edges. The silver frame was oxidized to enhance an antique look on the bangle as seen in figure 1.

Figure 2 - Mbeje A. 2020. Knife-edge Bangle. Plastic HPDE and Silver frame

 

PlatAfrica - 1 Prototype Model Development

Cushion shape Bangle

Figure 1 - Mbeje A. 2020. HDPE Plastic 

How to bend  High-density polyethylene (HDPE) into a cushion shape by using a candle, and dome punches to create a curve on the edges

Figure 2 - Mbeje A. 2020. Cushion shape Bangle. Dome punch and candle

Cushion shape bangle 

Figure 3 - Mbeje A. 2020. Plastic Bangle. HPDE and Silver frame

Silver frames on top of HPDE 

 Figure 4 - Mbeje A. 2020. Cushion shape Bangle. Plastic HPDE and Silver frame

PlatAfrica 2020 Competition - Bangle for Men

Design Rendering 

Figure 2 - Mbeje A. 2020. DNA bangle Inspiration, Silver frame, HDPE (Red and Black), and Platinum pattern

Figure 3 - Mbeje A. 2020. DNA bangle rendering, Silver frame, HDPE (Red and Black), and Platinum pattern

Figure 2 - Mbeje A. 2020. DNA bangle rendering, Silver frame, HDPE (Red and Black), and Platinum pattern

My design was inspired by DNA structure patterns. The fundamental of using these design patterns are part of what my role model, he is in the music industry of South Africa. His name is Zakes Bantwini. I look at him as a musician DNA, due to his successful career in music.

Township Domestic Waste

Township Waste 

Figure 1 - Mbeje A. 2020 Township Domestic Waste Plastic. Plastic bottles

The reason why I chose to use domestic waste plastic as part of my research, I have always been affected by the environmental waste around my township area in sidewalks and river streams. My goal is to use domestic waste plastic that is found around communities and CDBs as a way of incorporating non-precious materials into my art-jewellery work.

Figure 2 - Mbeje A. 2020 Raw plastic. HDPE Plastic (coca-cola caps)

This is the raw plastic material coming from domestic waste plastic which I was cleaning and also melted in the oven.

Earrings Design Concepts

Design Concepts

Figure 1 - (n.d) Geometric Shapes
 https://za.pinterest.com/pin/369084131959578352/

Figure 2 - (n.d) Geometric Shapes 

https://za.pinterest.com/pin/400046379397920917/

Figure 2 - Mbeje A. 2020. Earrings - Design

I haven't decided yet, and I am still busy with the design concept of these earrings. I want to design earrings that will have movement and balance. I will be using geometric shapes as my inspiration for the earrings as seen in Figure 1.

Cushion Pendant

Cushion Pendant - Design Concepts

Figure 1 - (n.d) Geometric Shapes 
https://za.pinterest.com/pin/378091331215471660/

Figure 2 - Mbeje A. 2020. Cushion Pendant - Design

The design of the pendant was more focused on the colour contrast between metal and HDPE plastic. This pendant can be worn by different genders. The design of this pendant was inspired by the geometric shape that is seen in Figure 1. I want to create a collection that will bring unity and balance, whenever you are wearing one of the jewellery pieces.

Figure 3 - Mbeje A. 2020. Cushion Pendant, Black-HDPE Plastic, Diamonds Cubics, Silver

Cushion Ring

Cushion Ring - Design concepts

Figure 1 - (n.d) Geometric Shapes 
https://za.pinterest.com/pin/803681495986230350/

I am currently busy on a collection called Cushion Shapes, which is inspired by geometric shapes from figure 2. 

Figure 2 - Mbeje A. 2020. Cushion Ring- Design 

This ring can be worn as unisex depending on the HDPE plastic that is used on the ring. I am planning on using different types of metals like silver, brass, and copper in the collection. I want to create a collection that has contrast differences, repetition, balance along with HDPE plastic as seen in figures 3 and 4.

Figure 3 - Mbeje A. 2020. Cushion ring collection, Black-HDPE Plastic, Diamonds Cubics, Silver 

Figure 4 - Mbeje A. 2020. Cushion ring collection, White-HDPE Plastic, Diamonds Cubics, Silver